Due to a large number of requests, I am now providing the parts to fabricate the brackets as a "flat" you-weld-it kit. All of the plates are pre cut by CNC including the mounting holes. You just bolt the plates to the frame, and weld them together. Your truck makes the perfect jig. The price of the kit is $250 + shipping. It weighs in at 81 lbs. We are located in Pasadena, Tx 77501 if you wan't to check UPS for shipping rates to your area.
The kit includes:
Pre cut 1/2" steel plates to fab the front spring mounts, two shackle mounts, and the shackles.
Two 1/4" plates to box in the front spring mounts
One 2" receiver hitch tube
Two 3/4" heim joints
Four machined and tapped rods to make the shackle mounts and shackles out of.
I don't provide the square tubing to make the hitch out of, soley because it costs a lot more to ship than it would for you to buy locally. To complete the crossmember you will need a 26" piece of 3" square tubing with a 1/4" wall and two 15" pieces of 2" square tubing with a 1/4" wall.
This unit is very heavy duty. Installation of the kit is simple and can be done at home. There is no welding to your truck. The front bracket bolts on to pre-existing factory holes but the shackle mounts do require you to drill some holes. There is one pre-existing hole in each frame rail for alignment, and the brackets work as their own jig, so there is no worry of drilling a hole in the wrong place.
To complete your solid swap you will need the following parts:
1. A solid front axle
2.
Front leaf springs for a 1973-87 Chevy 4x4. These are available from 1.5" to 12" of lift. Checkout Superlift
3. Longer shocks. These will have to be sized to the amount of lift you desire.
4
. Longer brake lines. The length also depends on the amount of lift.
5. Steering components. Varies by axle type and lift hight.
6. Get your front driveshaft modified.
7. A lift for the rear.
If you are interested, shoot me an e-mail and check out the swap page for more information.
Here are some more photos of the components.
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The front crossmember. Dana 44 from a 1986 Jeep J-10 |
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I have an extension on the receiver hitch so the winch can clear the bumper. 4" superlift leaf springs |
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This is a picture of the front body mount. The front crossmember wraps around the frame and bolts on through the three holes for the bumper.
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Two more bolts are installed through the tow hook mounting holes. The tow hooks can be relocated from under the frame to inside the frame. |
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This is a top view of the shackle and mount. The mount attaches to the frame with with 5 1/2" bolts. One hole is pre-existing in the frame, but it has an odd-triangle shape to it. I punched the hole through with the drill, and bolted the mount on. Ssquare the mount, and use it as a template to drill the other four holes. This is the hardest part of the whole install process. A good sharp bit you will make this task quick and easy. The kit comes with a matching piece of 1/2" plate that sandwiches the frame The shackle is topped by a 3/4" heim joint. It bolts directly to the mount with a grade 8 bolt and lock washer. |
Steering
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The steering system you run will depend on the axle you install and the amount of lift you run. I installed a flat top knuckle and a new steering arm on the passenger side. I went down to the local auto parts store, and opened boxes of tierod ends until I found a couple that fit the steering arm and pitman arm. The draglink itself is a solid 1.25" bar that I drilled and tapped for the tierods.
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I also run a 4" drop pitman arm on the factory steering box. |
Rear Suspension
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The rear lift can be accomplished a number of ways. The easiest way is to install taller springs. If you go with a very small lift you can install blocks under the springs. |
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My setup runs a combination of components to achieve the 8.5"s of lift that I needed. I run a shackle flip, a small block under the spring pack, and a couple of add-a-leaves. |
Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions or just want to discuss your project.